Hunter Agri Construction

Concrete Preparation and Equipments

What You Need To Know About Removing Old Floor Coverings

The kind of floor coverings that you would like to get rid of will determine the complexity and how much work is involved. Carpet and Vinyl Tiles are relatively simple to remove; Complete vinyl sheets can be more difficult and getting rid of ceramic tile is much work.

So how do you get started?

First order of business is to obtain the tools that you will need for the job. You will need a floor scraper, energy knife, spray bottle,  liquid cleaning agent, wallboard knife, wet/dry vacuum, heat gun, hand trample, masonry chisel, flat pry bar and end-cutting nippers. You will also need a concrete dust vacuum extractor to collect any harmful dust particles that you might be exposed to in the process.

Preparation work

You will need to remove baseboards before tackling the removal of flooring. To safely eliminate baseboards put a piece of scrap board against the wall to avoid harming the wall itself. Remove the baseboard using a crowbar positioned against the scrap board. Move along and pry the baseboard at all nail locations. It would be a smart idea to number or letter the pieces as they are gotten rid of for simple setup after you have completed the work.

Removing Vinyl Sheet

After getting rid of base mouldings, use a utility knife to cut the old floor covering into strips about 12 inches wide.

Pull up as much floor covering as you can by hand, grip the strips close as to the floor as possible to lessen tearing.

For persistent areas, you can cut strips 5 – 6 inches large. Start at the wall and peel up as much as possible. If the backing remains, utilise a service of water and liquid meal washing detergent, spray under the surface layer to help separate the support. Utilize a wallboard knife to scrape up the residues.

Scrape up the remaining debris utilising a floor scraper. Spray with the option as you go to loosen the stubborn material. Sweep up the trash and then finish up with a wet/dry vacuum. Ensure that the gap has about an inch of water to help lower the dust.

Getting Rid Of Vinyl Tiles

Remove base mouldings. Begin at a loose joint, use a long-handled flooring scraper to pry up the tiles. Stubborn tiles can be gotten rid of by softening the adhesive using a heat gun, then use a wallboard knife to pry up the slab and scrape underneath.

Get rid of difficult locations of adhesive or backing by spraying the floor with a service of water and liquid meal cleaning agent, then scrapping with a flooring scraper.

Eliminating Carpet

Using a utility knife, cut around metal limit strips (situated at wall base) to release the carpet. Eliminate the limit pieces with a lever.Cut the carpet into small enough pieces to merely perform and remove. Roll the rug in strips and eliminate from space, then duplicate the procedure with cushioning.

The cushioning will likely be stapled to the flooring; it will turn up in pieces as you roll it.Use end-cutting nippers or pliers to remove all of the staples from the floor.If the carpet is glued down. First cut the rug into strips with an energy knife, then pull up as much material as you can. Scrape up the remaining product with a floor scraper.

Eliminating Ceramic Tile

Remove base mouldings. Using a masonry Chisel, knock out the tile. If possible, begin in an area between pipes where grout may have loosened up. Take care of vulnerable fixtures and drain flanges.


You can use a ride on floor scraper machine to get rid of any remaining debris and adhesive, you might need to use a belt sander with a coarse sand belt to grind off the stubborn adhesive. Beware of excessive dust particles and wear a safety breathing mask before operating the equipment
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Concrete Floor Paint And Vital Preparation

Preparation is important when applying floor paint. You can only expect a surface to stay in place, if its substrate is permanent. If the substrate crumbles or moves, your surface and floor paint will move with it. After 40 years of application practice, flooring experts have developed application preparation procedures that minimize the risk of substrates moving. Floors that are new are especially vulnerable and require extra preparation before painting the floor. While a new concrete floor is dusty for the first couple of years while the latent of concrete on the surface are kicked, walked, or driven off. The latent must be removed before quality topcoats are applied; or the topcoats will move with the latent as they break free from the substrate.

Cleaning first with a high pH or alkaline degreaser attacks oil and grease contaminants while moving the floor pH higher will do wonders for the floor paint finish. And afterwards you put on a low pH acidic cleaner that attacks minerals, rust and other particles. That makes your pH jump 10 points or better to shock contaminants loose from substrates. An acidic cleaner should have detergents, rinse agents and water softeners blended into it so that it is formulated to do the best job possible. It is very important to bring the pH back to normal 6.5 or 7 pH after cleaning, using a scrub rinse.

If you have ever tried to run your fingers across your car after pressure washing it; you know that it still has a thin layer of road film on it. That is because surface tension holds even high pressure from penetrating the road film. You must break the surface tension with contact during all three steps of cleaning. The more aggressive the contact the better for removing concrete latent, small particles of concrete that are ready to break of to become that endless dust coming off unquoted concrete floors.

You should be careful relying on retail store clerks alone, to help you with a floor that will be used for the next 10 to 20 years. Now a day’s factory-direct kit of materials including step-by-step instructions and a 24/7 online help are now on hand. With these resources, you can put quality floor paint down in your garage that will last for many years. Like with a car finish, you may get some scratches and marks, but likewise a car finish, a little touching up can keep the floor paint looking good for many years.

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Installing Discount Laminate Flooring

Discount laminate flooring is an inexpensive alternative to costly hardwood floors. A variety of tones and styles are available to fit every décor and budget. Although less expensive, these floors have the look of natural hardwood flooring. Major manufacturers such as Mohawk flooring and Shaw Laminate flooring make good quality floor materials.

You have many choices in discount wood flooring. There is something for every room in your home and every style of interior design. You will find a wide selection of colors and textures to fit everything from a rustic Early American style home to an ultra modern contemporary and every style in between.

Although most laminate is made to resemble wood, you have many more options. Other options include ceramic tile, stone and marble tile laminate designs. You may choose ceramic tile in the kitchen, marble in the living room and wood in the family room. With today’s laminates, the possibilities are endless.

Finding the Best Price for Discount Laminate Flooring

Before you start shopping around for the best price, you need to know how much you need. Take accurate measurements for the area where the floor will be installed. Add an additional ten percent to the measurements of the room to allow for cutting and mistakes in the installation process. Add a bit more if you will be laying the planks in a distinctive pattern.

The internet is a great source for discount floor materials. Most sites offer good pictures to give you an idea of what you are ordering. Make sure all materials are from the same lot number when you order. The color variations can be significant and very noticeable once the floor is laid, if they are from different lot numbers. In addition, the finish and texture can vary.

When your flooring arrives, check it carefully for damage. Check the edges and corners for chipping or other damage. Small chips may not be noticed, but large ones will be seen when the floor is down. If the damage is bad, you may need to exchange it. If only a few pieces are damaged on the ends, you may be able to use these on as pieces that would need to be trimmed anyway.

Installing Flooring

Installing laminate flooring is fairly easy. It’s a good DIY project for the handy homeowner. There isn’t much preparation needed. It can be installed right over your existing vinyl or hardwood floor. You can install it over either a wood or concrete subfloor. It can be installed over concrete for basement flooring.

The pieces fit together easily in a tongue and groove fashion. The floor is not glued or nailed in place, as is done with hardwood floor installation. The tongue and groove slots are held together with a special adhesive that is made for laminate flooring. This type of floor is also known as a floating floor. The job can be easily done in a day or two for an average size room. If only doing one room, this is a good weekend job.

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Concrete Paver Molds: The Latest Trend in Home Improvement

As a native Californian, I’ve come to accept that home exteriors are almost always constructing using either siding or stucco. Bricks are used sparingly, if at all, and stonework is generally confined to indoor tiles and outdoor patio stones, river rock set in gardens, and exposed aggregate patios. More often than not, though, walkways, patios, and driveways are simply poured concrete.

Personally, I’ve always been attracted to stonework of all kinds. Whether it’s a cobblestone driveway, a fireplace made from river rock, or a ledge stone wall, I think that stonework adds beauty and interest to a home. Given that stonework can cost upwards of twelve dollars a square foot, however, I’ve never been able to afford to remodel my home using the stones, rocks, and tiles that so attract me.

Then I ran across an article about concrete paver molds, and discovered that there’s a new trend in home improvement: making your own, custom colored, concrete stones, rocks, tiles, and bricks. I’ve tried it, and with the right preparation and instructions, have found that I can make my own building materials for just pennies. In a nutshell, here’s how it works….

Concrete Molds

First, you need to start with high quality concrete molds (although some people call them cement molds or plaster molds). There are companies that make concrete stone molds, patio molds, concrete paver molds, stone veneer molds, and brick veneer molds. Depending on the type of stone or tile, the mold may cover an area ranging from about four square feet to about seven square feet. A ledge stone mold, for example, may produce 16 ledge stones, while a river rock mold may produce 12 river rocks. Ideally, you should buy several molds so that you have a rocks or stones with a variety of appearances. Keep in mind, though, that you can use different colors or turn stones in different direction so that it doesn’t look like you’re using duplicate stone or rock shapes.

Preparing Concrete Molds

Once you have your concrete molds and are ready to begin your project, you need to apply a mold release product so you can easily take out the stones, tiles, or bricks when they’re finished. While some companies recommend using motor oil, the run off is bad for the environment. Some of the newer mold release products can be sprayed into the concrete molds with a spray bottle – a much preferable method.

Mixing Colors

The artistry in making your own concrete rocks, tiles, and bricks is in finding and mixing the colors you like. Initially, you mix a base color into a concrete and sand mixture. Once you have this base color, you can add additional amounts and combinations of color to give you the variety you seek. Indeed, you can create an infinite variety of colors simply by adjusting the color densities. The best colors are made from synthetic iron oxides, although some people have had success with natural oxides, ceramic stains, and even latex paint.

Concrete Pouring and Curing

Your concrete mixture should be relatively stiff and not soupy. Using a scoop, you pour the concrete mixture into the concrete paver molds and fill the mold to the top. If you simply want a veneer stone or tile, you can partially fill the mold.

If you’ve ever worked with concrete, you know that it’s important to get all of the air bubbles out after a pour. This can be accomplished by bouncing the concrete stone molds up and down, or by purchasing and using a vibrating table. Next, cover the mold in plastic and let it rest out of the direct sunlight.

The longer you let the concrete cure, the stronger it will be. The concrete molds and be unmolded after 24 hours, but it’s best to wait longer. Once you release the stones, tiles, or bricks, you should rewrap them in plastic to preserve the moisture and let them cure for an additional two weeks. Then, you simply have to apply sealant to your creations, and they’ll be ready to install.

I’ve discovered that able to create a beautiful stone pathway, tile entryway, or river rock fireplace is incredibly rewarding. And to think that it all started when I read an article about concrete paver molds.

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